After covering each show respectively, it’s time to take a closer look backstage. The joint theme connecting the two shows from Jun and Takahiro was the idea of Disorder/Order. Contrasting the two collections against each other, UC takes a much more youthful and streetwear oriented approach, while The Soloist show chooses to subvert traditional menswear. Click through to see more images and you can shop current season items from the brands at SSENSE and Idol.
For his FW18 Undercover collection , Jun showed that he really reveres the work of director Stanley Kubrick. He had toyed around with looks inspired by the Shining’s Grady sisters in his last women’s show and for his men’s collection at Pitti he showed many pieces based around Kubrick’s 2001: A Space odyssey. The film centers around a near-future where a rogue AI takes over a manned space mission. The feeling of isolation and dystopia is channeled through various prints reflecting scenes from the movie. It also shows up in other unexpected ways like the HAL 9000 LED fanny packs and raincoats screen-printed with “WARNING.HUMAN ERROR. COMPUTER MALFUNCTION”. The rest of the collection offers up familiar re-treads on Undercover’s signatures – mixed fabrics, trim wool coats and military parkas. A real showstopper for me personally were the down jackets , with illumatinated facemarks that resembled the spacesuits from Kubrick’s sci-fi classic. Jun has always embraced the future in many of his collections, but looking to Kubrick for inspiration has also added a feeling of nostalgia to the proceedings.
If I could raise a criticism of the collection, it would be that the collection feels almost too predictable. It covers all the bases you expect from UC with the same type of printing techniques used in the past and in a way that feels very trend friendly. Still a good collection but perhaps next to the transcendent showing by his friend Takahiro , it feels a little more ordinary.
Gosha staged his runway presentation in one of Russia’s first ever rave venues. That theme carries through to the whole collection with looks based around the personal style of 90’s Ravers. In addition to the usual streetwear staples that we’ve come to known from the label, the collection also includes Track jackets and oversized jersey by way of the season’s Adidas collab. The fit this time around is much baggier, with a focus on bright patel colors and even tie-dye pieces.
Get the collection at SSENSE and END.
Noah posted a new editorial taken in the middle of New York winter on their official blog. Shot against docks and outdoor locales, the collection features simple styling to showcase the pieces. The winter friendly items including black embroidered varsitycrewneck sweatshirts in pared-back hues, button-downs and wide chino pants. Shop the collection directly through Noah or online at SSENSE.
Cav Empt has done it’s seasonal refresh, closing their web shop and releasing a lookbook for their spring/summer collection. As to be expected, the brand offers up it’s usual full assortment of outerwear, hoodies, sweats and wovens. It seems that the focus is technology with various references to everything from Mac classics to quotes on surveillance. The range is also surpassingly bright, featuring a lots of color blocking and a sporty 90s palette. Look to C.E’s site for more information and for items to drop early in the new year.
You can find current season items on sale now at END and BDGA.
In preparation for the spring/sumer 2018 collection Stone Island drops an inspired lookbook showing the new items. They have taken inspiration from vintage Polish military uniforms and have used alligator camouflage this season as a new print. he pattern was hand painted before being photographed and re-printed. The alligator camo pieces also come with shoulderpieces of a special light cotton-nylon rep material which undergoes a six color printing process.
Elsewhere in this collection, the brand has reworked some iconic pieces from its cult Marina line. The Marina release was developed in two separate collections – the “Folded” capsule seeing pieces dyed, folded and printed by hand to give them an original graphic motif that varies on each piece.. The “Allover” pieces are produced in a more conventional method with a range of spring-friendly colors and striped patterns reminiscent of past Marina collections.
The collection also features garments made using a nylon tela base that is then plated with a highly reflective white coating — made using thousands of glass microspheres. The capsule also sports TANK SHIELD pieces which have a multilayer fusion technology that guarantees water resistance and breathability. The key colors used throughout the collection include “Pewter,” “Ink” and “Moss.” Look for the collection to drop in the common months available at retailers including END , SSENSE and 18 Montrose.
If I were to name the most consistent brands when it comes to delivering well-styled lookbooks each and every season, nanamica would be at the top of that list. For it’s spring/summer 2018 collection the Japanese menswear specialists deliver on their promise of “minimal design with maximum functionality.” Of note is the great use of khaki and olive green in the collection, blended together with black and tan items. Technical fabrics used include GORE-TEX and PERTEX but it’s styled nicely as they are worked in with pieces that use natural materials as well. Look for pieces to drop early next year at international stockists for the label including END and Blue Button Shop.
There’s something special about a well worn garment that becomes a personal favorite and that’s a feeling that emerging label Placebo is attempting to re-create. Placebo’s debut collection is titled “Induction” and the brand concept is making “Something from nothing.” The brand has selected military surplus pieces from the 1940’s and 50’s as the basis for their designs and breathed new life into them.
Toronto based designer Eske Schiralli has transformed the militaristic staples into something wholly different. For example the Convertible Overcoat has been over-dyed black from it’s original olive drab and re-crafted with raw edges and outfitted with waist pockets with Talon zippers. The brand has transformed these vintage pieces bringing them into a new context where each wearer can configure them for their personal style. For example the M51 Panel Cargo Pant comes equipped with integrated cargo straps that fasten around the thigh and ankle allowing the fit to be adjusted from slouchy to tapered. The Oversized Noragi T-Shirt can be tied at different locations making it wearable in four different ways.
Placebo also has a selection of accessories in the collection. They include an awesome black Patchwork Boonie Hat that’s overyded and handcrafted as well as a portable Multi-Purpose Travel Bag with antique government issue D-Rings and heavyweight canvas belting. Ultimately Placebo hopes wearers will make the pieces part of their daily wardrobes, breaking in the items through natural wear and tear. You can check out more from the brand through website and the collection is now available at Blends and other select retailers.
Click through to see the rest of the lookbook and a video presentation below.
Photography Jayson Palacio | Videographer Lucas Chemotti
The Errolson Designed NikeLab ACG line returns with a strong 2017 Holiday season. Just in time for wintry weather, the collection includes the usual mix of technical minded items including shell jackets with mesh front pockets, layering vests, as well as color-blocked track pants with cargo pockets. It’s also good to see that alongside the usual men’s selection, ACG is adding womenswear to the line. A patterned balaclava rounds out the items with prices ranging from $70USD to up to $700 for the shells. You can preview the entire collection on Nike’s site HERE meaning the collection will be dropping real soon.
Australia may not come to mind as a fashion capital but it is home to an up and coming line “Song for the Mute” has been steadily building an audience and an aesthetic that pulls from both traditional streetwear and more avant garden concepts. The spring 2018 collection has a washed out palette and raw hems. Hand-screened graphics in the line come from a personal place – old family photos and the coordinates the brand’s studio . The season has a bit of everything from distressed BDU style shirting and vests to knit shorts and baggy cargos. The styling emphasizes the possibilities the pieces enable amazingly paired with sandals. If any of the pieces catch your eye you can pre-order them directly from the brand’s webstore. Regardless the lookbook is well worth further inspection.
